Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Wait, do you even know HOW to cook fish???
To begin, some context. Lately, we (the exchange kids) have been taking turns cooking dinner for one another. Sometimes this takes the form of traditional cuisine from our respective homelands, and sometimes it is just what is quick, fast, and feeds lots of people. Since my American culinary background is far from exciting, I had yet to offer my services until tonight. I decided that it was time to branch out of the norm, and so I offered to prepare fish for a group of 10 people. Simple, right? Read on...
To begin the journey, Micol (Italy) and I headed to Sariyer (the small town below the university) to purchase the necessary ingredients. After 3 different produce stands, I finally had all the onions, garlic, ginger, spicy peppers, spinach and lemons I would need. Now time for fish, or in Turkish, balik.
Having walked by the fish marker at least 2 times before, I set out determined to find it. After a couple wrong turns, and with Micol's help, we finally located a small shop showcasing aprox. 20 different varieties of fish. Realizing that all the fish names on the menu were in Turkish, I started flipping through Micol's Turkish-Italian dictionary. (Her hands were full) Seeing as my Italian is about as good as my Turkish, I would look for the word in Turkish, then try and pronounce it in Italian for Micol to translate into English. This continued for several minutes, which Micol found hysterical.
Finally, we decided to give up, and just point to the most attractive option. A wonderful older Turkish man came over, and let me pick out my 5 favorite fish. Then as he turned to package them, I realized that they were not yet gutted or clean. So, of course, I asked Micol if she knew how to do that. She laughed, saying that she was Italian, and that they didn't do such things. So, not knowing how to either, I began the extensive process of trying to ask the man to prepare them for me. Since I have NO idea how to say "gut", "clean", "cut" or "slice" in Turkish, I proceeded to do a little dance. Starting at my head, with a slicing motion across my neck, I tried to explain that I wanted the fish de-headed. Then, moving to my ankles, that I wanted the tails taken off. Then, by cutting vertically down my body and making a squishing noise, that I wanted the fish gutted and cleaned. My performance garnered heavy laughter by both the "fish man" and Micol. The good news? He knew exactly what I wanted...
So, I followed him to the back, and watched the process... Meanwhile, he asked if I was American, and we had the following conversation.
Fish Man (FM): American?
Me (in Turkish): Yes, I am an American exchange student at Koc University
FM: Ohhh! Koc!
Me: Yes Koc!
Pause...
FM: American... Bush? Bush Bad! Bush No! *thumbs down sign*
Me (in English): Yes, Bush bad... *Thumbs down*
Me (in Turkish): Bush is going *swift hand gesture outward* (I choose to say this mainly because we have only learned the continuous tense of the verb "to go" so far....)
FM: Yes.
Me (in Turkish): Obama? Obama very good!
FM: Yeah??? OBAAAAMMAAA! *Thumbs up*
I've decided that my cleverness, and ability to rally the international community behind Obama should grant me the title of Turkish Campaign Manger for Obama '08. Anyways, that is another story.
After all my purchases, we headed back to campus to begin prep work. Micol nearly had a heart attack when I started washing the rice, and then prepared it in the traditional Iranian fashion. But, she was a good sport, and helped me chop, dice, slice and wash endlessly.
The end result was really impressive... Steamed fresh fish cooked with ginger, peppers, garlic and onions, served with garlic sauteed spinach, and rice. Dinner was a hit, and everyone seemed to enjoy the story of the "Fish Man".
After cleaning up, I sat around for a little while with a new Turkish friend of mine. She and her two close guy friends taught me how to play batak, a traditional Turkish card game with striking similarities to Uno. This took a while, as the game is complex, and they would frequently break out into a fight in Turkish about the best way to explain the rules in English. As we were playing, the Turkish version of "Deal or No Deal" came on. NO JOKE! I almost died laughing, thinking of my family. My friends asked what the American version was like, and I said that it was very similar, but it has 50 scandalously dressed woman, who parade the cases around. They laughed, and then said that the Turkish version was simply censored... You know, that religious thing...
Overall, tonight was a great evening with lots of good memories.
Now, I'm going to go do my Turkish homework. Perhaps I will write my story about the Fish Man... You never know when I will need the verb "to gut" again....
Monday, February 25, 2008
Hello? You there?
Mailing Address:
Sabrina Sussman
Koç University
Yurt Müdürlüğü
Rumelifeneri Yolu
34450 Sariyer- Istanbul
TURKEY
*Please note, no packages! Only letters and postcards please!*
Cell Phone:
905548238593
Email Address:
Sabrina.Sussman@American.edu
Skype:
Sabrina.Sussman
AIM SN:
CAGurl222
If after all of these ways you still can't reach me... Well... Then someone should notify my parents...
(Just Kidding!)
Saturday, February 23, 2008
How do you say "hospital" in Turkish?
Now, before everyone starts to get worried. I am fine. Despite having spent the better part of the past 2 days seeking medical attention, I am not hurt. Joost, my good friend from the Netherlands, on the other hand, is.
It all began with a KABAM! (At least that is what he says...)
After a fairly low key day, Joost arrived in my room, announcing that he had "Kabam-ed" during basketball, and that his foot hurt. After a preliminary examination using my fairly limited medical skills, I determined that a trip to the 24-hour student health center was in order. (AU kids- People here get sick outside of the hours of 9-5! It's amazing!) This would be the first of three trips to the center.
The doctor/ nurse that we "spoke" with (they=no english, and we=very limited Turkish) determined that Joost might have broken his foot, and needed x-rays at a hospital. Upon hearing this, the two of both burst out laughing. This sparked the doctor to ask us where we were from, and if we were really students.
After some discussion, it was determined that Joost would sleep on it, and return to the health center in the morning for another evaluation. At 10am Friday morning, Joost, Micol (My friend from Italy) and I arrived at the center. After a quick eval, this doctor said that Joost needed to be transported to a hospital for x-rays, and perhaps a cast. However, she said that the ambulance was busy at the moment, so we would have to return at 1:30pm for a transport. (Welcome to Turkey...)
After several hours of fighting with the European insurance company, Joost and I returned to the health center. This time, we were smart enough to bring along Haava, my next door neighbor. Her Turkish skills would later prove to be essential.
I will leave out all the details of the ambulance ride, except that by the end, I really thought I would need medical attention. Picture riding in a small back of a van-like vehicle, up and down a mountain, through a city, with no air, and Turkish traffic for 2 hours. Joost says that the story would be so much better if I actually had thrown up on him, but I insist that I like this version better.
After about 2 hours, we arrived at the American hospital. Phew, I thought. English, good doctors, and efficiency. Exactly what I need. Except not. The American hospital did not accept Joost's European insurance, nor did speak English. This meant that we all were returned to the ambulance, where we proceeded to drive to another hospital, Memorial. Arrival at Memorial hospital might have been the most reliving part of my week. After running up and down, left and right, from the ER to admitting to Radiology, and then finally to Orthopedics, it was determined that Joost would first see a doctor, before spending the time getting x-rays. (Might I add, no one here spoke English either which meant my good friend Haava was QUITE busy interpreting every word.
Finally, we got in to see a doctor, ENGLISH speaking. He immediately examined Joost, and said that hie had strained a ligament in his foot. Yepp, ladies and gentlemen, that was IT! A simple ice wrap, and script for pain and anti-inflammatory meds and we were sent on our way, no x-rays. (Might I add, this is at 5pm)
From there, we had promised to meet up with some of our friends, if Joost was feeling okay. The original plan for the day was to head to Fatih, a conservative area with the most famous religious convergence in the city. (All of the old churches, temples and mosques) Since Joost needed a trip to the hospital, that plan was out for the two of us. So, we decided instead, just to meet up with them in Taksim, the famous shopping/eating/partying district in Istanbul.
The ambulance driver offered to drive us to the nearest bus stop to Taksim, so we took him up on that. Apparently, that meant under a highway overpass. So, this meant that the three of us had to climb, yes climb, up a dirt and stone hill to reach the top of the overpass. From there, we walked along a highway for a minute or two, and then caught a bus. (Meanwhile, I was convinced Joost would fall and ACTUALLY break a bone) From the bus, we caught the metro to Taksim, and met our friends outside of a Starbucks.
From there, we grabbed dinner at a Pizza Hut (No, that is not a joke), went to a pharmacy for Joost's meds and grabbed ice cream. Then, my roommate, Duygu and her closest friends joined us. We headed into the nightlife area of Taksim, and ended up at a club where an awesome band was playing. (The drummer was the cousin of my roommate's friend). Throughout all of this, Joost's foot seemed to be doing SO much better. So well, in fact, that he managed to salsa with a girl he met at the club.
All in all, it has been some of the most entertaining days of my trip so far. I mean, after 20 consecutive hours with Joost, who wouldn't be entertained.
Stay tuned, I have lots of other stories from this week!
Monday, February 18, 2008
Snow days are a beautiful thing...
1) I made it through Week 2 of classes. Unfortunately, my Independent Study proved to be near impossible to coordinate, so I ended up just picking up a 5th class. Organization Behavior, which seems very interesting. It is all about leadership, organizations, human nature and increasing satisfaction. Basically, its right up my alley.
2) Caught up with Cyrus via skype. Apparently, he is kicking some big hockey butt! Playing goalie for two teams isn't easy, but I've been getting the game analysis from him. Unfortunately, I am not there to witness all of his game saves, but I get the readers digest version from Turkey.
3) Learned about the differences in meaning between Turkish and American ideas of love and romance. I say that with some sarcasm. In my Turkish Family class, my professor dedicated a full class period to examining our ideas of love. She managed to wholly offend me, and the greater American understanding of love at least three times in this 75 minutes. While it was interesting to hear her obviously not-objective understanding of our cultural differences, I decided that I would continue to believe in my prior understanding of romance. For more details, feel free to ask. It was quite hysterical!
4) Engaged in Brain Gym exercises. My crazy, but fantastic Intercultural Communication professor (the American) taught the class several brain gym exercises to get us thinking at the start of class. This was interesting stuff. I'm not sure I am convinced yet, but we will see... She said that we will do it every day.
5) Valentine's Day. While I cmpletely detest this holiday, the exchange students were able to make it rather enjoyable this year. The 14th is also the birthday of the other student from American University (Sarah, the PhD student). So, Micol, my good Italian friend offered to cook everyone a fantastic authentic dinner. As sous chef, I helped her prepare food for about 20 people. Followed by birthday cake, it turned out to be a really good night.
6) Woke up at 6:30am to go to the Police Station. No, not because I was in trouble. All the exchange kids were bussed to the station so we could complete step 2 of getting our residence permits. That was exciting, as we caused quite a stir! 20 foreigners running around the station, it was good times.
7) From the police station, we headed out to the city, revisiting the Grand Bazaar, the book bazaar, Istanbul University, several area mosques, and the Roman Aqueducts. We ended the night with a 2.5ytl (Turkish Lyra) fish sandwich right on the water, and 3 hours of public transportation to attempt to get home. Amazing!
8) A whole lot of nothing. My regular 3 day weekend is pretty fantastic. It allows me to have a great deal of free time. Usually this time is spent on campus, with other exchange students, watching movies, gallivanting around Sariyer (the small city below the university). Saturday was no different, and ended with a large gathering in my room. Little Caesars and Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind ended our evening.
9)A new Turkish friend. A made a friend in my comm class, Pinar. She had me over to her apartment downtown on Sunday so that we could work on our Culture Collages together. (Yes, a collage, with pictures... I love my classes) I spent the whole day with her, her sister and her boyfriend. We cut out pictures, pasted, watched Desperate Housewives with Turkish subtitles and hung out. At the end of the day I had to brave the storm to get home.
10) Oh yeah... The STORM! We have been hit by a lot of snow. Not a lot by Rochester standards, but a lot by DC or Istanbul standards! Its been fantastic helping all of the exchange students who are new to snow get adjusted. There have been lots of snow angels, snow ball fights and snow men. Additionally, the storm has granted us SNOW DAYS. They canceled class today, Monday, and JUST announced that we will also have tomorrow, Tuesday, off. That means a 5 day weekend for me!!!!!!!! I appreciate the snow a lot more as a result of this.
That's about all... I'm off to got meet a bunch of people at the gym. They've started playing basketball, which is exciting. But, instead of trying my luck at a sport meant for tall people, I'm going to hit the cardio machines, and get some lifting in before another authentic Italian meal.
Hope all is well with you!!!
Sunday, February 10, 2008
When a class is taught in Turkish, you know you have a problem...
In honor of completing my first week of classes, I thought I would provide my readers with a run-down of the observations I have made this past week.
Most of them are simple, but point to the fundamental differences in culture that make
So.. Back to the topic. Classes here run on a Monday-Wednesday, Tuesday-Thursday schedule. Friday's are reserved for problem and discussion sessions, which I have successfully avoided all together! This means that I have a three day weekend, every weekend!!!!
Anyways- I am taking the following classes:
1) Institutions and Politics of the European Union
2) Basic Turkish Language and Society
3) Intercultural Communication
4) Family Studies and the Turkish Family
My plan is to add an Independent Study to this list, but thanks to AU's unbelievable bureaucracy, and Koc's unbelievable slowness, this hasn't quite happened yet. Stay posted!
Overall, classes have been going well. I have yet to do any homework, which is a great way to start the semester! I am interested in the topics, and think that my professors will all be pretty good. So, with the fundamentals covered, on to my list of observations...
1) No one ever pays attention during attendance. (Anywhere, this is not unique to Turkey) That is, until a professor calls my name, and I have to say here, or state my my year, major, and reasons for taking the class... As soon as I open my mouth, the entire class swings around, and starts staring... I'm not sure yet if it is my accent, or the fact that I am an American, but I seem to harbor a lot of attention. And talking in class? Forget it! As soon as I raise my hand, people stare until I am done with my thought.
2) Even the Turkish kids don't always know where the buildings on campus are... Having gotten lost several times this week, I have been relying on the kindness of fellow Koc students to help me find buildings. However, sometime this have proven difficult. All of the academic buildings here connect through a complicated series of under and above ground tunnels, which makes it hard to tell which building you are in. Luckily, I think i have it figured out now. But, I felt comfortable in my company, as some of the natives couldn't even find their way around.
3) Armani is like a god here... The TA of my second class had a very flashy Armani sweater on... I had a hard time focusing, in my basic long sleeve shirt and jeans.
4) Time is very fluid... A 2pm class means that the professor shows at 2:05, and the class begins at 2:10.... But, if you show up any time after that, you can still come in... Only one of my classes has the professor expressed the need for people to arrive on time. Everyone else just assumes that you will arrive eventually, and if not, that it is your problem to deal with...
5) Exchange students have a natural bond for a reason... Being alone in a classroom with 30 Turkish kids is terrifying... So, when you walk into the student center, and there are other people who are terrified and speaking English... Relief sets in.
6) When day 1 of class is entirely in Turkish... Drop the class... Enough said....
7) Coffee is necessary... Even if it has to come out of a machine... The university has coffee vending machines all around the academic buildings, and EVERYONE uses them... As a patron myself, I can attest to the fact that they really do make getting through class a lot easier!
8) Class from 11-5 is bad, no matter what country you are in...
9) People talk in class, constantly! No matter who is talking, or where they are sitting, talking in class is more frequent than note taking. Not that I can understand what anyone is saying, but I do know that it has nothing to do with the material at hand.
10) Communication professors are special everywhere! My comm professor here is a American-Greek-Jew from LA, with crazy hair and a need to move around the classroom at all times. She makes me laugh, because she represents all the insanity of SOC (School of Communication) that I miss...
Well,there you go! The Top Ten of Turkish Education... I'm off to bed for now, I have to be at my Turkish class at 8:30 AM!!!!!
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Wait a minute... We have to go to CLASS here???
Here's a rundown of the last couple days...
Friday (Sightseeing in Istanbul)
The main gate
From there, we went to the most famous kebab place in Istanbul... While I couldn't try any of the meat, I had a fantastic soup! I also tried aryan, which is a traditional yogurt drink that tastes just like Iranian doogh. It was FANTASTIC, and reminded me of home!
Next was the underground basilica, which was the most incredible underground structure I've ever seen... It was filled with spring water and large goldfish, and was lit to accentuate the ceilings and stone carvings.
From there, we headed to the grand bazaar... I didn't get to spend as much time there as I would have liked, but I plan on going back... It's even more exciting than you can imagine! I got a chance to practice my bartering skills, and hopefully they will get even better by the next time I go.
After leaving, we headed to a nargilah (hookah) place, where we all hung out, grabbed traditional turkish food from street cars, and enjoyed the company. After that, we all decided to head home early, as we were totally exhausted from our day of running around the city.
Saturday and Sunday (Calm before the storm)
The majority of the weekend was spent preparing for the week ahead. On Saturday, I had to move to my permanent room, which was across campus. After a key disaster that took an hour to fix, I finally began the moving process. It was sad to leave my fabulous Italian roommate, but she was moving to a new building also. After unpacking all of my things, I met up with the rest of the exchange students and our mentors. We headed to the Metro City mall to purchase SIM cards for cellphones, and to get dinner. Then, about half of us headed to Taxim again. We started at a pub, where we practically took over an entire floor (the 4th, to be exact). From there, we went to a dance club. We coincidently ran into the exchange coordinator, which was very awkward, but very funny! She left rather quickly after seeing us! One girl was not feeling well, so Micol, my Italian friend, and I left with her. Together, we navigated our way home from downtown WITHOUT the help of a Turkish friend! I was very proud...
Sunday morning I slept in, then got lunch with a couple exchange friends. After I went grocery shopping, and hung out before all of us met for dinner. We went to the cafeteria, and watched the Istanbul Derby football (soccer) match on tv. After dinner I met my new roommate, and prepared for the week ahead...
Monday (Day 1!!!!)
I'm going to post later in the week with some formal observations I've made since classes started here at Koc, but here's a rough outline.... I went to 4!!! classes on Monday, and thank god some let out early... If not, I would have been in class from 11-5pm! After that exhaustion, and some confusion with my academic advisor, I met the exchange kids for dinner. We then decided to organize a movie night, so we watched Thank You for Smoking. (Despite Brittany lending me the movie for 3 months last semester, I still had never seen it!) Its a fantastic movie, especially for someone who is interested in pr! After that, I came home and met 6 of my roommates friends, and then headed to bed...
I'm off today to buy a cell phone (FINALLY) and grab dinner with the gang in the city... Check back later in the week for an update on classes, and all the funny little things that are different here!
Gule Gule!!!! (Goodbye in Turkish!)
Saturday, February 2, 2008
The Day Everyone Else Arrived...
Let's begin with Wednesday, which we will call "The Day Everyone Else Arrived..." Since this was the last day before official orientation began, most of the remaining exchange students arrived in the mid-afternoon. After doing various forms of paperwork, and meeting the new students, we sat around, talking and getting to know everyone. Meanwhile, our Turkish mentors were busy running around and planning an activity for that evening. We were told to bring our cameras, and to be hungry.
At around 7:15pm, (Turkish people eat dinner much later than in the states) we all boarded a mini-bus that they had arranged for, and headed downtown. We once again went to Taxim, the area of the city that I mentioned in my last post. The mentors had mad dinner reservations for all 20 of us at a very traditional Turkish restaurant. As we approached the table, there were approximately 20 types of appetizers and salads already set out for us. However, we realized that this was a little above our budget, so the waiters quickly came and took most of the plates away, leaving us with several different types of food to try. As we all got settled, everyone in the restaurant started to look at us, as we stuck out pretty dramatically. As a very large group, speaking loudly in English, we were in the definite minority. This restaurant was a place that a lot of locals enjoy, so we were really immersed in the culture. Shortly after being seated, the live music began, with traditional Turkish instruments and songs. All 20 of us really enjoyed ourselves, trying all of the new foods and drinks, and getting a chance to talk. Before long, several members of our party started dancing to the music, with people from other tables, and yelling. To be quite honest, we created quite a rucus. By the time that our bill of 530 lyras (aprx 450) arrived, I think the wait staff was ready to see us go.
After a good night's sleep, we all woke up on Thursday to begin official orientation. This included a short greeting from the exchange director, and lots of details about our stay in Turkey. From there we did a campus tour (It is HUGE, and unbelievably gorgeous... Pretty much EVERYTHING is made of marble, including stairways, walking paths, and almost all of
Thursday night, one of the mentors invited all of the exchange students over to his off campus apartment (still owned by Koc University, but not on campus... Think Park Bethesda) We ordered pizza (Little Caesers... No joke) and hung out for a couple hours. After, my roommate and I invited two other students to our room to watch a movie. We ended up getting halfway through How to Lose A Guy in 10 Days, before it was time for bed...
I'm going to have to take a break here, and move to my permanent room. It is all the way across campus, and my bags are really heavy! I had some key issues this morning, so hopefully it will work now. Next time I get a chance, I will have to tell you all about our travels on Friday- where we saw all the historical sights of Istanbul!
Goodbye for now!!!